WHAT WE DO IS SECRET
アート/Art 安藤忠雄/Tadao Ando クリストフ ロダミエル/Christophe Laudamiel クレモン ギャバリー/Clement Gavarry ゲラン/Guerlain 建築/Architecture 広告/Ad ザハ ハディッド/Zaha Hadid ジボダン/Givaudan ジャック キャバリエ/Jacques Cavallier シャネル/Chanel シュウ ウエムラ/Shu Uemura ジョン バーナム シュワルツ/John Burnham Schwartz ソフィア・グロスマン/Sophia Grojsman 高砂香料/Takasago 調香師 パフューマー/Perfumer ティエリー ワッサー/Thierry Wasserr デザイン/Design テリー リチャードソン/Terry Richardson 匂い/Scent フィルメニッヒ/Firmenich フェラーリ/Ferrari フランシス クルクジャン/Francis Kurkdjian 三宅一生/Issey Miyake メイド バイ ブログ/Made by Blog 吉岡徳仁/Tokujin Yoshioka レム コールハース/Rem Koolhaas ロホン ルゲルネック/Laurent Le Guernec
A question for Clement
Posted by Nobi, 13 Nov 2006
Recently, there was a very good question for Clement which made us think about the current trend in perfumery…
It’s not really relevant to the interview, but I’m curious what it is like to work with other perfumers on a particular fragrance. I’d imagine that there’s a lot of discussion and such, but was wondering if they run off and make mods and then meet up and decide what direction they like best, back and forth, until it’s finished? And who makes the decision to have multiple perfumers work on a fragrance? Is that more or less common than having a single perfumer?
Kuri
And, here is Clement’s answer to the question.
Hi Kuri,
Thanks for your question.
More and more fragrances on the market today are the result of teamwork.
So, why has it become like this over the last several years?
- Short deadlines: we often have to make new mods in one day.
- So many briefs to work on at the same time: each perfumer needs to prioritize his projects. Some projects will need other perfumer’s help to be finished in time.
- Sometimes we get stuck in a formula. The involvement of another perfumer could help take a fresh look at it.
- There are often requests from our clients or the management to have such and such perfumers work together.When we work together on one project there are a lot of discussions not just between us but also with the evaluator and the client. Many back-and-forths usually happen.
Clement
Good answers, no?
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Thank you for the response! It sounds more and more like regular work (albeit creative). If there weren’t pictures, I might start picturing a Dilbert-like workplace. Clients must be pretty aware of the work of specific perfumers if they are inclined to request particular teams.
Comment by kuri — November 14, 2006 #
Kuri, that’s what I find fascinating about these perfumers and the industry.
Do you know a Japanese proverb “Nou aru taka wa tsume wo kakusu”?
It’s similar to “still waters run deep” or “Who knows most says least.”
Comment by Sacre Nobi — November 17, 2006 #
Hello Nobi,
Regarding your comment about perfumers and the industry - that he who knows the most says the least.
Why do you think that is? There are lots of perfume blogs out there so obviously there are a lot of people interested in perfume, but no website or blog written by an actual perfumer that I know of except the things that Clement and Laurent have written here. The closest thing to an insider blog would have been Luca Turin’s I guess, which was really great while it lasted.
Comment by sariah — November 28, 2006 #
Hi Sariah,
Thanks for your comment.
I will answer to your question soon.
Nobi
Comment by Sacre Nobi — November 29, 2006 #
salut Clément,
j’espère que tu vas bien
on cherche à réunir avec qqs anciens de Victor Hugo les personnes avec qui nous étions en classe, je ne sais pas si tu habites aux Etats Unis ou si tu es en France
bref, tiens moi au courant si tu reçois ce message
Cordialement
Christophe Aimo
Comment by christophe — December 1, 2006 #
I have not heard that proverb, but that’s true for most proverbs
Comment by kuri — December 6, 2006 #
hi,
I just came a cross this bolg for the first time today, as I was surfing the net, and I’m seeking your advice, I was working in the fragrance industry 2 years back for 4 years, and had to leave it.
I had a totally different career ever since then, and been working for a global company where things are going smoothly.
Recently i’ve been offered a job with IFF and i’m very confused, from one side I have a very nice job with a big multinational company, but I hate the product that I sell; other than that every thing is great about my current job, on the other hand I have a great passion for the fragrance industry, but i’ve been out of the industry for a while and I would appreciate your advice on IFF as an employer and the future prospects of it, especially after Givaudan’s aquisition of Quest.
Regards,
Comment by chaos — March 10, 2007 #
Hi chaos,
I’m wondering if your question is addressed to Clement or me, but let me assume you are seeking an opinion from someone outside IFF.
I don’t know if you are being approached by IFF in UK or in another country; nor do I know what is the job description that you have shown by them. Hence my opinion will be general.
IFF is a “big multinational company” as well. At the same time it is an American corporation and has the strength and the weakness that American companies generally have. American companies are good in focusing on short term turnovers but lack long term visions compared to Japanese companies that have extremely long term visions. In other words, money comes first for an American company, but for Japanese company “survival” is the way to see business. So, I cannot say anything optimistic about IFF in 20 years from now, but for the moment it is the leader in Fine Fragrance business even after the Givaudan’s acquisition of Quest, and I think it will stay like that for a while. However Fine Fragrance is only a part of the business for Givaudan, IFF or Firmenich, and these companies will focus on flavors and toiletries more and more in the future.
You need to make sure that the type of job that you will be offered at IFF has a good future perspective (for example, sales position will be great but IT is not good). And make sure you will be paid much more
Comment by Sacre Nobi — March 11, 2007 #