The Beginning of the End
This concludes Marina’s Round 5 with mod R5/Q and R5/R.
Do not be troubled by the ominous title of this post. It is all good. I liked one of the last two mods so much, I believe we are now not simply on the right track but actually well on the way along the track towards the happy ending. The mod I am talking about is R5/Q. I suppose I should mention R5/R as well, just so it doesn’t feel completely left out. It is a great leather scent, a little smoky, a little salty. If all I wanted was leather and nothing but leather, it would have been wonderful. But I envision something more for my Holy Grail, with leather certainly being a prominent element, but still just one of many elements.
R5/Q, on the other hand, has the complexity and depth I am looking for. It starts on my skin with a sweet-n-spicy accord, which features a pronounced fruity undertone. Not sparkly-pink fruits, which I hate, but over-ripe, dark, exotic fruits oozing honeyed nectar. This spicy-fruity accord reminds me very much of that in Fendi Asja. In fact, R5/Q’s beginning seems to me to be a little too similar to Asja, and maybe just a tad too fruity for my taste. The middle stage is creamy and vaguely floral; about two thirds into the scent’s development a leather note appears. At first it is a rough, smoky, take-no-prisoners leather, but slowly it begins to soften and turns into the most delicate of calf skins or maybe even suede. Because of the “fruits”, the smell of which is still lingering even at the later stage, the mod at this point reminds me quite a lot of Serge Lutens Daim Blond, which is one of my most favorite scents of all time, but again, I would like a little less similarity. I am sure that if we toned down “the fruits”, the similarity would disappear.
To sum it up, what I want to be done to Holy Grail now is for the “fruits” or whatever it is that I perceive as “fruits” in its top notes to be taken down a notch or two. I also would love for the scent to have a stronger floral accord in its heart. Something languid, exotic and creamy, to compliment the general warm feeling of the composition. Perhaps we could try gardenia? Gardenia and leather…does it not sound wonderful to you? It does to me! As for the leather note, I think it is just perfect as it is now, not too smoky and forceful but not too wimpy either. So – less fruits, much more flowers, no change to the leather, and…we will be done!
Image source, mythinglinks.org, echonews.com
20 Comments
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Marina
Maria,
You think I am gutsy? π I am so not. Actually, I can’t really wear gardenia soliflores like Isabey’s. But when it’s paired with something dark/leathery/incensey, I can’t get enough of gardenia. And in defense of R5/Q :-), it isn’t really fruity-floral. I’d say it is woody-oriental with a pronounced fruity note. I want that note to be a little less pronounced. -
Nobi
Marina,
For the final round(s), I hope you will have a chance to sit down with Clement at IFF to wrap up the project. -
Marina
Nobi,
That would be so very exciting. We are *hopefully* moving closer towards NYC in the near future, so getting there woulnd’t be that much of a problem anymore. Fingers crossed. -
Kelley
Marina, I have been following this project for a long time and this (even though it seems a completely different scent from your original idea) seems much more interesting than the spicy saffron concept. I am already saving my money!
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Marina
Thank you, Kelley. We did move quite far from the original concept, haven’t we? But the general feel- warm, opulent, somewhat dark- should still be the same.
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Flora
This sounds just delicious, like something I would love for sure! Gardenias? Bring it on! π
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Gfred
a more pleasant or addictive leather is hard to come by. I was delighted to find mods coming my way last round. as a leather addict I can’t wait to get on line at a super luxe store and buy a bottle
Good luck MarinaGary
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sariah
Hi Marina,
I’m loving R, I don’t want my sample to run out. I find it more fruity and sweet than Q, but still with a good deal of leather and “skank”. Actually from your descriptions my nose thinks what you’re describing as Q is actually R – interesting. Congratulations on getting close to your HG.
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Lavanya
Hi Marina..I am liking Q quite a bit too..Initially I found the sweet and spicy topnotes a leetle too sweet…but on the second try I found the sweetness quite addictive ..(probably because of the balancing effect of the spices and leather)..It reminded me a bit of sweet ‘paan’ which is a sweet and spicy concotion wrapped in a betel leaf ,that is usually eaten after a meal (in India)..
Your suggestions sound interesting..can’t wait till the next mods..
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Marina
Thank you, Lavanya! That’s what I feel too, one minute I find it almost too sweet, then I come back for more π
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Judith (lilybp)
Well, I finally have a moment to test these, and at first smell (not too far into in)–I like them both! I think I am preferring R, which, although it’s clearly leather, seems more complex on me than you describe. Yum! But Q is great too, only a little sweet. I will check back with longer impressions after more time, testing, but I wanted to say SOMETHING! In any case, this is going to be wonderful!!
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Marina
Judith,
I knew you’d say it is a little sweet. I actually think so too. Can’t wait to more about what you think of these. -
kuri
Sorry I’m late with my comments!
Marina, you freaked me out with your title. The thought of this ending makes me sad, but understandably it must be exciting to see your holy grail approach.
Your description of mods Q and R makes me wonder if my mods have been mislabelled. Q is a straight leather scent on me, and R is a delicious mix of fruit and leather intertwined. Seriously, it’s scrumptious. I haven’t been totally feeling these mods – they’re wonderful and fascinating to smell, but they aren’t really me – but R! I find it surprising and wearable (although still not really me :D). It might be a tad sweet though.
Reading sariah’s comment reassures me that the mods are probably properly labelled, but points out that we appear to have the reverse skin chemistry from Marina! I don’t get wood or fruit from Q; where did it go? Heh.
I luuurv gardenia so gardenia and leather sounds yummy. However, judging from our reactions to the mods, I won’t be able to smell this gardenia, will I? Hee.
Notes from my first trial of the mods:
Q: nice: leather skank.
R: ooh, a fruity opening! Works well with the leather skank. Hrm, is this a fruit or a floral? Seems to be holding itself well against the leather skank. I like the juxtaposition of the two. -
Marina
C,
Now I am worried that MY mods were mislabelled. Because your R sounds like my Q. Hmm. Hmm. My R was definitely a straight leather scent with no sweetness or fruits. I don’t think any skin chemistry is strong enough to change a scent so much…But I am sure Clement would understand just from description, which mods we are talking about. He’d know where there was fruit, after all π -
kuri
Hrm, yes, Clement will be able to figure it out, so it’s all good π
This is a woody oriental? I see I have much to learn still. I can’t begin to detect subtleties like spice and calfskin. I get big block letters of FRUIT and LEATHER jumping out at me instead.
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Sali
Marina, I’m very thrilled for you and can’t wait to smell Holy Grail in its completed, perfected form. I wanted to let everyone know that I loved the samples I received of this scent this time around. I haven’t compared them as carefully as I should yet, but the overall impression was impressive. I smell the leather note but the perfume is sweet enough for me, and probably why I find it so pleasant. It’s not too heavy but it’s a substantial, an interesting blend.
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Maria B.
Marina, gardenia and leather sounds like YOU. One has to be a little gutsy to wear gardenia, and you are more than that. Great idea! I can understand how you’d like to make sure it’s not a fruity floral. =:0